Monday, August 29, 2011

A short walk into the rainforest - Daytime

     I am slowly and quietly walking alone through a tract of lowland rainforest in the Osa Peninsula in the southwest of Costa Rica. They say this is primary forest, the type of forest characterized by having the highest diversity of organisms. It is silent; it is still. I am making my way to the buttress, a large root, of a crooked-leaning canopy tree where I intend to sit for a while. There is a small chatter of only two notes, followed seconds later by a deafening cacophony of alarm calls that explode from the tree tops above me! The hair on my body stands on end as it rarely does these days, and as I gaze upwards I see that I am surrounded by a troop of over 20 previously unseen squirrel monkeys (Saimiri oerstedi) that are quite literally leaping into action to announce to the forest that I have arrived. The sounds of squeals, high-pitched chatter, and a minute though surprisingly far carrying screaming fill the dense air. Now this is not the first time that I have been surprised by a hidden troop of monkeys, and compared to some (howler monkeys) these are rather quiet and polite (capuchins like to break off branches and throw them at you!). But something is different about this encounter, I still can't put my finger on what. I continue to sit quietly on the root, and eventually the monkeys settle down and continue with their daily activities. Once again the forest around me is silent, with the only sound to be heard being the constant rain of debris that the monkeys displace as they forage in the canopy overhead.



   

   It is at this time that I start to think about encounters and interactions with the rainforest's secretive inhabitants. There is a marked difference between the two- a willing interaction and an encounter, with the latter being far more common. I think about my most recent encounter, the monkeys. It could be described as "natural", although it was my being noticed as out-of-place that initiated the encounter- the monkeys reaction to a perceived threat may be a natural response, but my intrusion that forced it was anything but natural. On the walk to this part of the forest I travelled through a patch of old-growth secondary forest which afforded me my most recent, and greatly appreciated, interaction with a "lone man". As I stopped to take in the scenery for a brief moment, I heard the tell tale buzzing that signaled the approach of a hummingbird. Out of nowhere there appeared in front of me, a Long-billed Hermit (Phaethornis longirostris, lone man). She had a brown body with a decidedly long white tail that tapered to a fine point, topped off with a handsome, and rather long, decurved (downward curving) bill. She flew up to me, in open space, to inspect my being. She hovered there for somewhere around 30 seconds, changing her angle and view every few moments, as to get a better look at me before flying off. What a meeting! Face to face with a WILLING rainforest inhabitant. Aside from brief moments like these, the only interactions that one is likely to be privy to are the all too often "exchanges" with the very willing mosquitoes.

     As I sit here, not counting the monkeys or the huge living pillars of green and brown that support the roof of the rainforest, the first sign of life makes itself known to me; or should I say herself. It is an ant, but not just any ant, it is my favorite ant. Yes, I have a favorite ant, and how could you not, with so many different options out there- Odontomachus with their 180 degree trapjaws, Crematogastor with their heart shaped abdomens, or the infamous Paraponera bullet ants with their legendary size and sting? I have found this ant at over 38m (125ft) up in the canopy of a Vantanea tree in a North Atlantic premontane rainforest and now right here, sitting on a root in the forest's basement at almost sea level in a South Pacific lowland rainforest. It can be a large ant of spectacular yellow, iridescent golds, and contrasting black. I do not know her name, nor have I ever even asked. I have never tried to take a picture of her before for fear of spoiling her beauty with a lack-luster photo. While she remains a mystery, she is always there, wherever I travel in this country. An omnipresent, and most welcomed, familiar face.

     It is only with time and patients, sitting on a root perhaps, that you get the chance to observe this forest as if you were absent, to see the way it works. Now this doesn't mean that with a few silent moments all the jaguars will come back out onto the pencil-thin trails, the bushmasters will come out of the dark, damp crevices to lay on sun-baked trunks, or the Atelopus will hop right into your view finder... it means that the organisms, starting with the smallest ones, will start to reveal themselves in the most natural of ways. Encountering an animal while walking on the trail usually elicits one of two responses- the animal flees or relies on its evolutionarily perfected cryptic camouflage to remain hidden from you. Instead of a brilliantly colored Pepsis wasp flushing from under the thud of my footstep, I am able to watch as it lands on a tree trunk and begins to very methodically search for its arachnid prey with rapid twitches of its antennae. These tarantula hawk-wasps as the they are often called, seek out spiders which they then capture and paralyze, bury, and lay their eggs on. Upon hatching, the larvae proceed to eat the still living, though immobile, spider. And then, from my left comes a new visitor- a male lizard of the species Norops polylepis, the Golfo Dulce Anole. Previously hidden on the mottled brown bark of a nearby tree, the Norops leaps onto a large, broad leaf of a fishtail palm. As he lands, perched so perfectly, head proudly raised at such an angle that I could never recreate this image with a few moss covered sticks and leaves in an open-air rancho as so many of us as have tried, he positions himself with all the glory of the smaller majority and lets fly his enormous orange and yellow throat fan for all competitors, females, and I'd like to think for me, to see. Never before has such an image, on such a background been captured in the confines of a studio.

     The rain is coming and going now, though nothing too heavy yet. I expect the worst of it will come a little later in the afternoon. Every time the rain stops and the sun comes through the canopy of this old light gap, a temporary exuberance overcomes the forest. The cicadas erupt in a chorus so drowning that even your thoughts become lost amongst their dull roar. Upon widening your gaze from the immediate area you notice that there are actually several little yellow-orange flags being flashed throughout the light gap, signaling the even spacing of each male Norops's territory. The hummingbirds dart in and out of the gap in a seemingly precarious manner, flaring their tails, flashing their gorgets, chasing and harassing each other while visiting flowers of several shapes and sizes- to name only a few these included heliconias, gingers, Columnea, and other flashy Gesneriads. The names of these hummingbirds start scrolling through my head, names as colorful as the birds themselves. It isn't until now that I realize how aptly named these birds are: Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Purple-crowned Fairy, Long-billed Starthroat, Coppery-headed Emerald, Bronzy Hermit... They form a beautiful, easily personified assemblage of celestial-like inhabitants of the forest- the Fairys, Nymphs, and Hermits- the original natives of this realm.

     I suppose this onset of this heliophilic activity could be attributed to the fact that during this time of the year, every ray of sunlight that makes its way through this cathedral-like canopy, between these short downpours, could very well be the last of the day. At least that's my reasoning for sitting here silently on this root in the middle of the rainforest. 

-Don


Thursday, August 11, 2011

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca - South Caribbean

     Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (PVT) sits on the extreme southern Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, just above Panama. Puerto Viejo= Old Port, and the Talamancas are the mountains that start in the south of Costa Rica and run down through western Panama. The town itself is small, bordered on the north by Cahuita and on the south by Manzanillo, though most people consider this whole area to be PVT.

     There's an interesting atmospheric paradox that occurs here. It's a very laid back, Afro-Carib surfing town with a lot of pot floating around...yet at the same time there always seems to be a wild party brewing at one of the local bars or right on the beach itself. I guess I can see how the two fit together :-) Anyways the seafood is great, the vibe is right on, and depending on the direction you're facing there's black sand beaches to your left and rainforest to your right. What's not to like?

     Thats enough about the town itself though. This weekend was amazing; it was an adventure from the beginning. We set off on Friday morning to catch the first direct bus (4.5 hours) from San Jose at 6:00am. This meant we woke up at 5:00am...Yeah, in the morning... At 5:40am it was now our turn at the ticket window. Sold out. Next bus didn't leave San Jose until 10:00am! There was no way we  were going to wait around San Jose central, already checked out of our hostel, for four more hours, only to then have another four and a half hour bus ride! I didn't wake up that early for nothing. So after talking it over we decided to take the next bus to Limon (not a nice place) and hope that there was a bus going from there to PVT. So long story short, we made it to PVT a little before 11:00am, which wasn't too bad at all.

    One thing worth noting about the travelling- Upon leaving Limon I looked out the window and soaring high above, there it was... a FRIGATE BIRD!!!!! (that's for you Faye)


  


 The hotel that I booked happened to lose, cancel, forget to make our reservation, whatever the case we had to go somewhere else. We ended up just around the corner at a place called Jacaranda Hotel, named after a tree that flushes with small brilliant purple flowers, that was no where to be seen on the property. The place was pretty enough and had some nice landscaping that provided cute little shelters with benches and small tables placed throughout the grounds. There also was a small amount of animal life meandering around- rufous-tailed hummingbirds, social flycatchers and great kiskadees, and a healthy supply of Bananaquits right outside the window (they happen to be one of my favorite birds). There was also an odd abundance of Puerto Rican Crested Anoles (Ctenonotus cristatellus) These guys are huge!




    
 As far as activities for the weekend went, we were bums. The first day we wandered around town a bit, got some lunch and a couple of drinks, went for a short hike up Cashew Hill on the west end of town, and then went out for dinner later in the evening. I had resolved to wake up sometime around 6:00am the next day in order to get some hiking and birding done, but when I awoke it was raining, so I promptly rolled back over and went back to sleep until 9:00ish. The rest of our second day was pretty slow going- rain, lunch, a little more rain, a nap... We did eventually leave the hotel grounds in search of food. We ended up at this very nice bistro on the beach with the most amazing ocean/mountain/sunset view. I am still regretting leaving my camera in the room. We had originally planned on just having a drink there and then moving on to somewhere different for dinner, but we liked it so much we stayed for a few appetizers and our share of Imperial and gin and tonics.

Stawberry Poison-dart Frog
(Oophaga pumilio)
     The next morning, Sunday, our last, I managed to get out on the "trails" by 6:30am. I did some light birding which turned up a few familiar and welcomed faces (beaks?). I say light birding as I was also herping at the same time, which led to a lot of looking up and then back down at the leaf litter. I collected some photo subjects and put them in plastic bags to bring back to the hotel/studio. Rachel had asked me to bring back some Strawberry Poison-dart frogs, Oophaga pumilio, and I wanted to get some shots of the common, though stunning, male Yellow-headed Dwarf geckos (Gonatodes albogularis) that were found on many of the tree buttresses.
Yellow-headed Dwarf Gecko
(Gonatodes albogularus)

     A quick note on the photo shoot- It was such a relief for both Rachel and I to finally get some photography in. We had both gotten new cameras and gear around the same time, and had not really had anything "interesting" to photograph. She had gotten a Nikon D3000 camera with the 18-55mm kit lense (her first DSLR!) and I had purchased the new Nikon D7000 with R1 macro flash kit. Most of you know what it feels like to have a bit of extra money burning a hole through your pocket- well, that's what it felt like to have all this new exciting gear and "nothing" to do with it! It was burning a hole through my dresser drawer for over a month! So finally we were able to spend an hour or so photographing some spectacular animals as well as playing around with our "new" equipment. It was exactly what the doctor ordered.
BTW, Rachel is great photographer! Way better than I was as a beginner (and probably even still now). It's like she has an amazing mentor or something....*clears throat*.... Senior Paine......

     With the photo shoot behind us, we packed our bags and placed them in the hotel's storage room. With the bus to home not leaving for another four hours, we then decided to rent two bicycles and peddle our way down to Playa Cocles (a few km south) where we enjoyed an awesome beach lunch of tortillas, black bean spread, and an avocado, with a mango for dessert. I should of taken pictures of the mess we made :-)


    

A mojito and a beer while
 waiting on the bus to arrive
     The bus back to San Jose, the last one of the day, was around 30 minutes late, which put it just shy of our 45min deadline till we say "screw it" and stay another night. Too bad it came within our timeframe.

    

     Animal highlights of the weekend: 30 something species of birds (low, I know), 8 species of herps (6 lizards and 2 frogs), a whole lot of Nephila spiders, one CRAZY looking Argiope spider, some of the cutest street dogs to be found (including a Husky), Howler monkeys, and six sloths (two of which were spotted from the bus)!
Smokey Jungle Frog- Largest frog in Costa Rica
(Leptodactylus savagei)


     The food, the drinks, the animals, the atmosphere, and most importantly- the company for the weekend were the definition of perfect. I lamented being back in San Jose that night, but I took comfort in knowing that in less than 24 hours I would be in the Cloud Forests of Monteverde...where I'm writing this from now.

Male- Yellow-headed Dwarf Gecko
(Gonatodes albogularus)

Three-toed Sloth sleeping
in a Cecropia tree

 
Female- Yellow-headed Dwarf Gecko
(Gonatodes albogularus)


PURA VIDA!

-Don

Thursday, August 4, 2011

First couple of days back in Costa Rica

     It feels good to finally be back down here! As anyone who has spent time in this beautiful country can can tell you, four months away is just way too long.

     My flight down here was a late one. I took off from Fort Lauderdale at 11:31pm, but due to the time change I arrived in Costa Rica at only 12:15am. That was a quick flight! So fortunately it wasn't too late of an arrival. I grabbed a cab and shot off to my usual hostel for the night.

DAY 1:

     The morning came fast. I awoke with much anticipation for the day. I started it off right, with some out-the-window birding from my third floor room. All the San Jose usuals were about: Crimson-fronted Parakeets, Rock Pigeons, Rufous-collared Sparrows... even a Broad-winged Hawk soaring over the valley. Rachel met me at the hostel early that morning so we could get a nice start on our trip to the Poas Volcano. We grabbed a breakfast of AMAZING gallo pinto with eggs and tomato, and again for anyone who has spent time in the coutry- just to make you jealous- a large cup of costa rican coffee! THE BEST!

A lake at the top of Vocan Poas


    Poas Volcano is a short two hour bus ride from San Jose, a very popular day trip. It happens to be the first place I ever visited in Costa Rica, back in 2006. One of the country's many national parks, Poas sits at 2700m in elevation, which makes for a nice cool temperature during the day. We were only there for four hours, as we were bound by the bus schedule, but that ended up being more than enough time to walk all the trails and grab a cup of coffee before the bus departed. The time spent there was just casual hiking and picture taking, so I can't say I was actually birding- though I did manage to see eight new species of birds! All (obviously) high elevation specialists. After Poas, Rach and I went back to San Jose for dinner and hanging out. All in all it was an awesome day, and a nice welcome back to the country.
The crater where all the action happens- Volcan Poas

New birds for the day:
Fiery-throated Hummingbird
Slaty Flowerpiercer
Silvery-fronted Tapaculo
Black-billed Nightingale-thrush
Large-footed Finch
Yellow-Thighed Finch
Blue-and-white Swallow














DAY 2:

Road through the mountains
and pasture to Irazu 
     Today's adventure was a visit to another nearby volcano- the Irazu Volcano. This one sits substantially higher in elevation than Poas. It is the second tallest volcano in Costa Rica, at just above 3400m! It is also, in my opinion, much colder than Poas. I finally got a chance to test my new fleece- Arc'teryx Apache 1/4 zip- and see some of the birds often found at timberline. This trip was even shorter, again bound by the bus schedule. It lasted only about two and a half hours. I did manage to see another four species of birds which were new to me. Very exciting!
These leaves are over 4ft wide!
The vegetation changes
greatly as the elevation increases





Slopes of the volcanic crater
     After Irazu I met up with Rachel and headed to the city of Heredia, where she is living, and where the Universidad Nacional is located. We had drinks and dinner "on the town" which was nice. This part of Heredia Central has a wonderful college-town feel to it. The area is full of restaurants, bars, and cafes, which are in turn full of students. Night spent in Heredia at a great place called Casa Ciudadela.


New birds for the day:
Volcano Hummingbird
Timberline Wren
Sooty Robin
Volcano Junco
To give an idea of the size of this area, there is a group
of five people standing together in the barren plain.



The mist can cover the entire mountain
in a matter of seconds.
Love my gear!










DAY 3:

     It's now Thursday night, my third day in Costa Rica. It has been a pretty basic and relaxed day. I spent the day in Heredia Central, and now I'm typing this up from downtown San Jose. Rachel and I are spending the weekend in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, which is on the southern Caribbean coast, just above the Panama border. We have a god-awful early bus tomorrow morning that leaves San Jose at 6am, which means we're to be up at 5am... but four and a half hours after that, it's all black sand beaches, lowland Atlantic bird and herp species, amazing surfing, and a rum filled Afro-Carib vibe till the weekend's end! 

I'll try and update after this weekend.

PURA VIDA!